Notes & musings from a short weekend in Canada’s “Sin City.” Vive le Montreal.
Author: Paul Costianes
Images: Paul Costianes & Anastasia Prokofyeva (unless otherwise noted)
Editor’s Note: We love to travel at 55 Cities and that results in finding various places that we like, love or loathe. The “Field Notes” series is an effort to share our insights, opinions and lessons learned from traveling to cities around the world. We consider these stories to be the internet version of sharing the details of your trip with friends over coffee or a drink after you return, but with (a little) less bragging, more useful info (hopefully)…and maybe the same amount of annoying pictures. If you find these useful or have any places or opinions to add, let us know in the comments section below.
An Introduction, plus free Philosophical Ramblings
I needed a break. The hustle and churn of work had nearly beaten me into submission and I was swept through Summer and into Winter without recognizing that the warmth had disappeared. Now the walls were beginning to close in as Santa and his gang of dancing elves were preparing to destroy my nerve endings along with my pocket book. I only had time for a quick trip, up to 3 days at most and it needed to be conducive to kids and adults alike.
Everyone loves a trip to the beach, and what could be better than taking a break from the snow to put for feet in the ocean, sip on a tropical umbrella drink and float your cares away in a warm tropical locale. Remember that in life as in drinking, the sweeter the cocktail, the more powerful the hangover. Returning from a beach vacation to sleet, snow, and grey skies tends to drop an anvil sized dose of seasonal depression squarely in my lap, leading to a terrifying, weeks long spiral of crying over Jimmy Buffet playlists, looking at “vacation” properties that I can’t afford, and attempting to mix Mai Tais at home, which inevitably results in a bottle of Orange Curaçao sitting on my counter, constantly reminding me of the Cheeseburger in Paradise that I will never, ever truly taste. It’s time to stop the torture.
I would like to propose a different, dare I say a BETTER way my friends.
For Your Consideration: The Winter Ramp Up Trip
The Winter Ramp Up Trip is not just a way to avoid listening to Jimmy Buffet on repeat, but is an attempt to orientate your mind and soul in the parts of winter that are great. Cold weather cultures tend to embrace the frigid onslaught with a fervor that somehow manages to outshine the effects of exposure. They not only survive the winter, but seem to THRIVE in these extreme temperatures through winter philosophies that focus on bringing people closer together, creating warmth and comfort of the soul as a coping mechanism. Denmark and Norway have created an empire out of Hygge, but the Dutch also have gezelligheid and the Norwegians koselig. They aren’t the only “woke” ice dwellers. various cultures in the German and Austrian concept of gemütlichkeit, Swedish mysig and even Japanese concepts like mattari. Iceland even has a winter ice cream road trip tradition called ísbíltúr. Location not withstanding, if it includes hot wine, booze or cider, winter markets, snow and ice based sports, and frigid revelry, you’re on the right track.
Make a decision already…
We only had time for a quick trip, up to 3 days at most, so this wasn’t going to be a voyage of discovery to Nordic locales. A close location was important, not just to maximize time in our destination, but because getting stuck in endless winter travel delays with a 5 year old is a special kind of hell that should be avoided at all costs. After discussing the specifics with my family, we landed on a few essential criteria for our destination.
1. How Much Do You Love Winter?
We were looking for a winter friendly city that embraces snow and is awash in a festive holiday feel. Gimme all of the “Christmas Markets” across, hot wine and cider stands, ice skating rinks and festive light displays that you can stomach!
Montreal: “Ho, ho and ho.” – Muttered with a stylishly aloof French accent.
2. Are You Being Distant?
Ideally, we would find a place that was new to us and felt far away from the routines of daily life, while still being a relatively short trip. Bonus points for European architecture and primary languages that we aren’t fluent in.
Montreal: “Nous avons ce qu’il vous faut”
3. Do You Like Artsy Stuff?
A rich, inspiring and unique history of the finest art, film, literature, food, drink and music that the world has ever seen.
After a brief bit of research, it became clear that Montreal was our city, and since tickets dip in winter due to frigid temps, the choice was made.
The following represents our experience planning, researching, and traveling to the city of Montreal over 3 days in December of 2019. It is by no means an exhaustive account, but simply our story of the interesting places that we encountered during our research and travel. There is so much to cover in this city, and we plan to return again soon to go into more depth on various facets of the Quebecois.
Montreal: A Brief, possibly Irreverent Opinion
Montreal is often marketed as a “quick trip to France” due to the look and feel of Old Montreal, a preference for French as the language of choice, and its close proximity to major airport hubs. It’s true that there are European influences to be found in the architecture of Old Montreal, the excellent food and wine, and the use of French as the language of choice, but this sells the Quebecois and their history short.
In many ways, the city is very French. Gruff looking men discuss fine restaurants and wine with an unexpected sophistication and knowledge of where their food is coming from. Classical European architecture is on display at various points within Old Montreal and locals speaking French punctuates this feeling throughout the city.
This is balanced by an appreciation for, if not love of, pursuits that may be seen as quintessentially Canadian, such as a love of hockey, beer, hunting and fishing, a propensity for frolicking in sub-zero temperatures, and a thin level of politeness that runs through most interactions.
Montreal has an intriguing lineage that includes First Nations Tribes and the Seven Fires Prophecy, and links back to the First Fire, which represents the first phase of Native American history on this continent. French settlers and trappers joined the mix later and these two groups would go on to establish Montreal as a major fur trading outpost and financial epicenter of the New World. This lineage takes center stage in the food, style and culture of the city.
The result is a city that holds tradition close, but has produced revolutionary, society rattling events such as the Quebec Sovereignty Movement, The Quiet Revolution, Leonard Cohen, a damned fine Bagel, the non-sexual referencing “Sugar Shack,” and the Foie Gras Double Down.
What did we miss?
So let’s start at the end. In any good trip there are things that you miss or overlook because you’re picking things to do based on recommendations from travel media outlets, influencers, publications, friends, or other sources you generally trust. These itineraries may lead to great experiences and the trip of your life. More often than not, you realize there are things you should’ve seen once you arrive, and make a mental note to see that important cultural touchpoint when you return. And therein lies the rub, because how often do you ACTUALLY return to a place that you’ve paid hard earned money on and used vacation time to travel to?
As previously mentioned, this was a short trip that didn’t allow much time to deep-dive into all that Montreal has to offer, but we want to highlight a few of the experiences that we felt should have been higher on our to do list.
DISCLAIMER: Keep in mind that we haven’t tried, and can’t vouch for, these locations, but they will be a part of any future travel to the region. Also, we aren’t compensated for any of these links or recommendations. They are simply what we find unique or interesting about the region.
The Sugar Shack
The olllll’ Sugar Shack, or cabane à sucre for you French speakers, is ubiquitous throughout Eastern Canada and Northern New England. Initially created as cabins for processing Maple Sugar in Syrup, they have morphed into large, commercially owned receptions halls that offer demonstrations, outdoor activity itineraries, and full course meals and catering.
Note #1: Sugar Shacks tend be open seasonally, from Mid-February to Mid-May. Keep this in mind when booking your trip and reservations. Some Sugar Shacks are open year round, like L’Hermine Cabane à sucre & Bistro, so do your research before booking.
Note #2: There are several different varieties to choose from, but since I’m a bit of a fanboy, the Martin Picard owned Cabane à Sucre or the Shack Next Door by Au Pied de Cochon are of special interest to me.
An outdoor excursion, whether that’s hiking, skiing, hunting or fishing. The country outside of Montreal feels like a quintessential part of what it means to be Quebecois, and a mandatory part of the experience. There is a network of national parks throughout Quebec that include sites such as Saguenay Fjord, a 65 mile long fjord and National Park that flows into the St. Lawrence River. that warrant further exploration.
Note #1: Ideal season runs from May – September, unless you’re planning for ski or snowshoe excursions. Outfitters like Authentik Canada (not being compensated for any of these links, btw) have handy guides for planning purposes.
Note #2: Check out sites like Quebec Original, the official tourist site for Quebec Tourism, to plan an excursion. Hunting, fishing, skiing, hiking and other activities can be coordinated through a large network of outfitters.
I would also prioritize getting out of Old Montreal to spend more time exploring the unique neighborhoods of the city, like Mile End, Mont Royal or up-and-coming neighborhoods like Little Burgundy or Saint Henri. These areas feel more lived-in and give you the opportunity to interact with residents on their own turf.
Notes from 3 Days in Montreal
Our trip begins here. Flights to Montreal run from most major airports, with considerable discounts available in the winter, so set a reminder on your flight booking site of choice and keep an eye out. Be warned, temperatures get EXTREMELY cold, so getting a full experience will require ingenuity, a hefty coat, a hearty disposition and extensive use of public transportation, taxis and/or ride services. Plan ahead!
Note #1: Travel and lodging in Montreal have big discounts during the shoulder seasons, primarily due to the harsh winter weather and subzero temperatures.
Note #2: The good news is that this makes the city easy to navigate and free of the throngs of tourists that descend upon the city. The bad news is that it is INTENSELY cold, so bring your technical gear and use Uber.
New York, Boston and Philadelphia to Montreal all take around 1.5 hrs via any major airline. The main airport for the city is Montréal-Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport. It’s a modern, relatively connected, easy to access major airport with frequent flights in and out regardless of season.
Transportation to Old Montreal
Taxi: $40 CAD
Train: $25 – $35 CAD
Note #1: The train requires a shuttle from the airport to the train station, which runs every 20-30 minutes. Save the trouble and take a cab.
Note #2: The cars are clean and the drivers are friendly and knowledgable, but may not speak fluent English so be prepared to pantomime if necessary.
We decided to stay in Old Montreal in order to be close to the old European neighborhood and attractions due to the cold. The area is beautiful, historic and is very important to Quebec and Montreal, but had a decidedly tourist feel.
Note #1: I’ve heard that this place fills up with street performers and tourist hoards in the summer, so be aware. Rooftop bars are everywhere, but you’ll have to run a gauntlet of mimes, human statues…or worse.
Note #2: The next time we visit, we’ll drop by Old Montreal to stroll the beautifully European influenced streets, but will look to stay in neighborhoods like Mile End or Plateau Mont Royal.
The Hotel Place d’Armes is located at, you guessed it, the Place d’Armes, an important public site in Montreal and just a few steps from the Notre Dame Basilica in Old Montreal. It is housed across four 19th century neoclassical buildings and features multiple restaurants, a spa, gym, and all of the modern amenities that you would expect.
Note #1: If you decide to stay here, check out their selection of large, reasonably priced (in the winter season) Suites. Decor is a bit old and in need of update/repair on some floors, but service was great and staff friendly.
Note #2: If you’re a runner, check in with the front desk. The hotel organizes a staff led group run that takes you around the many historical sites of Old Montreal. It’s a great way to see the area and get your exercise in.
Montreal has a pretty extensive Train and Bus system that runs from the airport area to most sites across the city.
It was winter during our trip, so being on the streets for an extended period of time wasn’t a great option. Uber reigns supreme in the city, but there is also an extensive taxi network to use.
Note #1: Uber is the primary ride service available in the city. Cars are plentiful and rates between different types of rides are pretty close in cost. Bumping up to a baller Black Car isn’t a bad fee due to the connectedness of the city.
Note #2: Cabs are relatively ubiquitous in the city, but are a bit more sparse in certain neighborhoods at various times of night. If you’re visiting in winter, keep your ride share app close to avoid walking too far to find a taxi.
Montreal is a large, urban city with good sidewalks and a decent grid system. You can get from point A to point B relatively easily if you know where you’re headed and the weather is right.
Note #1: City Maps are oriented in relation to the St. Laurence River, so North isn’t true north, it’s north west-ish. Keep your map app of choice close and ask a local if you’re trying to find a smaller location.
Note #2: “The Underground City of Montreal,” is basically a big underground shopping mall full of cheap stores that you probably want to avoid, unless it’s cold and you need to cover several blocks out of the sharp winter wind.
Eat & Drink
Food and drink is an essential part of understanding another culture, city or part of the world. People take immense pride in the food that they cook at home, the restaurants that they frequent and the recipes that have been passed through generations of family members. It doesn’t matter how different your political leanings, life situations, or upbringings are, everyone has to eat.
There are a few guiding principles that I like to organize around when trying to choose from hundreds of restaurants, particularly if you’ve only got a few days in town.
How to figure out where to eat in a new city in 3 easy steps
1. Find the Stars
Who are the recognized food personalities that are beloved (and sometimes loathed) at your destination?
Most cities today will have a handful of chefs who have either gained national attention or are pushing the boundaries of local food. You can usually find them by searching publications like The New York Times, Bon Appetit or Saveur and track them down via Instagram or on a television appearance. These meals may be expensive and can be pompous, over-hyped establishments feeding off of fabricated media buzz from marketing dollars. The great ones, however, will give you a glimpse into modern takes on traditional dishes and ingredients from the region that you’re in, and a glimpse into the neighborhoods that have been built around them.
An Example: In Montreal, the modern restaurant scene was essentially created by Martin Picard at Au Pied de Cochon, and was pushed even further by the guys at Joe Beef, whose holdings now form an empire in the recently gentrified neighborhood of Little Burgundy.
Any of the restaurants that these groups created are worth checking out, but plan in advance because they are usually heavily booked.
The most important thing to keep in mind here is that if you can’t get into one of these places or they are out of your price range, skip them. Most of my favorite meals have been at restaurants that my wife and I just dropped into while taking a walk in a new city. Don’t forget to get out and explore a bit.
2. The “Low” End Theory
Identify the Captains of Industry for singles, tired parents, drunks, and the college-aged.
These types of establishments can often be found by asking a local one simple question. “What do you eat when you’re hammered drunk?” There is usually some kind of locally owned version of a fast food chain or a small shop that “only does something this way” that locals keep in their back pocket.
An Example: La Banquise is a Montreal institution that specializes in Poutine, aka gravy and cheese fries of all varieties, and is open 24 hours.
3. Who REALLY lives there?
Seek out those who have immigrated to your destination. The faces you don’t expect to see make up the true fabric of a city.
A diverse population makes a city great and usually results in pockets of excellent food options that usually spring up as reminders of home. Usually long time residents become curious and begin frequenting these restaurants, eventually making these dishes a part of their culture. In Scotland and England, you’re more likely to be referred to a great Indian or Jamaican place than a fish and chips joint. Minneapolis-St. Paul is home to the largest population of Somali Americans in the United States, and these restaurants represent a quintessential part of the dining experience. In order to truly understand the food of a city, you need to get an idea of who lives there.
An Example: Montreal is home to a large population of Northern African immigrants. Menthe et Couscous is a Moroccan restaurant in the Mont Royale neighborhood that looks worth checking out, and check out Eater Montreal for a full list of Northern African restaurants across the city.
Where we ate and drank in Montreal
You don’t go to Montreal to eat French food. While there are plenty of opportunities to do so in perfectly respectable establishments across the city, there is more to it than that. The food of Montreal embraces the history of the region, which means a focus on wild game and fowl, locally caught fish and seafood, maple syrup used in nefarious ways and gargantuan portion sizes to battle the face numbing temperatures. That being said, we present to you, dear reader, a very un-comprehensive list of the food and drink of Montreal.
Type: State Liquor Agency
Speciality: Beer, Wine and Liquor of all varieties
Why it’s important: A good place to buy booze for your room and a great selection of Canadian beer and whiskey.
Because you need a place to buy local booze that isn’t hotel priced and is available in your room at 2 am. The Quebec Alcohol Corporation is the national liquor store chain for Quebec. It’s your one-stop shop for all things booze. Grab a sixer of Laurentide or some Canadian whiskey and warm up.
Speciality: Coffee, pastries, sandwiches and small, high-end grocery
Why it’s important: A beautiful neighborhood spot for French style pastries and Quebecois cured meats, cheese, sweets and wine.
Ever needed a high end version of a bodega to cure your late-ish night cravings (or early morning hangovers) for coffee, pastries, cured meats and/or cheeses? If so, Le Petit Dep is you place. They carry a wide selection of excellent pastries, sandwiches, coffee drinks and local delicacies, so drop in for any of your higher-end take out needs. The place looks great, so feel free to ‘Gram it up you influencers, you.
Note #1: Known for coffee, sandwiches and sweets, they also carry a great selection of locally cured meats in the coolers at the back of the Old Montreal location.
Note #2: You can also buy beer and wine here, but save your money and head over to SAQ near the Notre Dame Basilica for a better selection and lower prices.
Type: Fine Dining
Speciality: Québécois Cuisine featuring Fois Gras and Pork
Why it’s important: Preserving Quebecois cuisine and pushing boundaries of fine dining
Martin Picard kicked off the modern food culture of Montreal when he opened Au Pied de Cochon in 2001. The flagship restaurant serves extremely rich versions of Quebecois style dishes featuring duck, particularly foie gras, and pork. This restaurant has become a cornerstone of the modern food movement in Montreal, and has allowed Picard to explore other aspects of Quebecois food in outlets like the Sugar Shack, which is a fully functioning maple syrup harvesting shack and restaurant outside of Montreal.
Note #1: If you’re a vegan, you may want to steer clear since foie gras is a contentious topic. In fact, the people standing behind me are vegans protesting the restaurant and heckling me. Despite waves to my daughter, a few insults and hand gestures, this was a pretty minor incident and the staff was more than gracious in moving us to a quieter table. After 10 minutes or so, the protesters dispersed to grab a green juice to get their vitamin levels back up and all was peaceful once again.
Note #2: The restrooms here are OUTSTANDING. Some Yelpers were talking trash about the doors being behind the service station because they were embarrassed to drop a deuce in ear shot of the wait staff. COME ON MAN. It’s OBVIOUSLY embraced here, as these single occupancy porcelain palaces have a 4 person sink and thrones equipped with a Japanese style auto-bidet toilet seat, PLUS a small flat screen positioned directly across with remote control (sanitized frequently based on questioning the staff). If you have to drop a few nuggets in Montreal, this is the place to do it.
Why it’s important: Hip neighborhood cafe for coffee, pastry and brunch
Tommy’s Cafe + Apero is a beautifully decorated, multi-level restaurant that specializes in coffee, sandwiches and breakfast items. The restaurant has invested so heavily in interior design and Euro friendly copy that they’ve made it to Goop (thanks Gwyneth). They don’t yet sell the Goop approved coffee enema kit, but this may be a part of future expansion plans. The DO, however, serve good bagels, sandwiches and espresso based coffee drinks and have a solid happy hour menu.
Note #1: It’s not St-Viateur Bagel Shop, but you can get a pretty solid take on the Montreal style, wood oven fired bagel here, so keep it in mind if lines are crazy elsewhere, which they probably will be.
Note #2: Steps to enter are SUPER steep at one of the entrances. “Crawl Up” steep. We helped a few strollers up and down during our visit. If you need less strenuous entrance ways, I’d use a side entrance around the corner or ask for help from the staff.
Speciality: Hand Made Chocolates, Coffee, Hot Chocolate
Why it’s important: Independently owned, small scale chocolate shop
This place was a cool little find next to Au Pied de Cochon that sold hand made chocolates with interesting combinations of herbs, spices, fruits and nuts. They also make one of the richest cups of hot chocolate outside of Paris. Fantastic.
Note #1: It’s great chocolate, in a fantastic area, so make it a stop while walking the Plateau Monte Royal neighborhood.
Note #2: Chloe is usually behind the counter making chocolate and the staff is very knowledgable, so tell them what you like and ask for recommendations.
This video may be all that you THINK you need for music, but you would be, at least partially, incorrect.
Montreal has a long record of producing top quality songwriters and those that like to bring the funk. I like to do some research on local music prior to traveling to a new city. Listening to what’s local legends can give you insight into what’s important to the people who live there, and can go a long way in setting the tone for your visit. Here are a few that we found inspiring.
If you talk about the many artists from Montreal, you have to mention Leonard Cohen. Across 15 studio albums, 2 novels and 11 poetry books he chronicled love, loss, lust, the metaphysical and the many nuanced subjects that make up life. He used the city as home base throughout throughout his 82 years and his songs and biography set the scene for my trip. There’s even a HUGE mural of him on Crescent Street in Downtown Montreal. He was essential listening for me for our few days in the city.
If you want to eat, drink and visit the Montreal spots that Leonard Cohen frequented later in life, check out this article by Rose Maura Lorrie.
The Nils are a punk band from Montreal that was started by 12 year old Alex Soria in 1978. They began to gain popularity throughout the early 80s, opening for bands like the Ramones and X when they came through the city. The band released their self-titled first album in 1987 and quickly dominated the Rolling Stone college rock charts, but were crushed into obscurity due to a terrible record contract with Rock House records and the drug addiction and eventual suicide of Alex Soria in 2004.
Musically they can be compared to bands like The Replacements, Hüsker Du, and even Big Star. Check out the excellent oral history of Alex Soria on Loud Alien Noise and their debut album on Soundcloud.
Sure, Chromeo is from Montreal and can absolutely bring the funk, but many don’t know that the city had a disco funk era GOD playing hockey in their city during the 70s. That’s right kids, Montreal Canadiens legend Guy Lafleur released a disco album in the 70s!!! Le Blonde Demon tore it up on the hockey rink AND the dance floor. It sounds…well, the way a disco album recorded by a hockey legend would be expected to sound. Talking in French over a funky beat with ladies singing the hook every so often. Let’s just say Serge Gainsbourg he is not, but give it a listen.
What to See
There are a TON of attractions to see in Montreal, from Museums and public parks, to unique neighborhoods, restaurants and Christmas markets. Here are a few of the places that we saw during our trip.
I love Chinatowns. Montreal’s version only takes up a few blocks between Old Montreal and the Quartier des Spectacles entertainment district, but has a solid offering of restaurants and businesses. Originally a Jewish Quarter of the city, Chinese Immigrants began to settle here in 1877, due to its proximity to railway building operations in Canada. Initially residents began opening businesses to avoid massive pay gaps due to discrimination, the specialization of choice being laundromats. Over time and with an increase in immigration, the neighborhood began to develop a robust selection of restaurants and grocery stores that offer
Note #1: Due to its designation as a tourist area and Montreal laws around this designation, Chinatown is open LATE. Drop by to check out any of the nightlife or to grab a post-drinking bite.
Note #2: Check out Restaurant Dobe & Andy for some fantastic BBQ duck.
The Chinatown Neighborhood
One more that we missed: The Dragon Beard Candy Man
The neighborhood is also home to Johnny Chin, one of the only masters of Dragon’s Beard candy practicing outside of Hong Kong. Unfortunately, he was not open on the day that we were passing due to the open air nature of his shop. Drop by 52 Rue de la Gauchetière O, Montréal, QC H2Z during the warmer months to try a uniquely rare delicacy.
The Musee d’art Contemporain de Montreal was unfortunately under construction at the time of our visit in December of 2019, but they are presenting an excellent temporary exhibition by Francis Alÿs that details children at play around the world, aptly titled Children’s Games. The museum is kid friendly and hosts workshops throughout the day that lets them try various art projects.
Note #1: The MAC is connected to the Underground City, so use that option if temperatures drop too low for outdoors, but you’re still looking to walk.
Note #2: Tickets are full price despite the limited offerings due to construction. The exhibits are still interesting, but keep this in mind and check schedules on the website when visiting.
So that probably seems like a TON of information to come out of a 3 day trip. In reality, I like to do a bunch of research on the history of a city, its residents, and interesting things to see before we go. My wife and I will work on lists of the things that sources tell us we need to see and do, and find books and music to listen to from that city. By the time we compile a massive corpus of resources about a place and move on to create an itinerary, the conversation usually goes like this:
Me: “Where should make reservations for this trip?”
Nastya: “I don’t know, there’s so much on that list you obsessed over for a week I can’t even look at it. Can you just pick a few?”
Me: “Uhhhhh, no I don’t think I can.”
Nastya: “Ok, this is exhausting, let’s just make one reservation and wing it the rest of the time.”
Me: “VIVE LE QUEBEC LIBRE!!!!!”
Nastya: “Right. It’s your turn to read the bedtime story. I’m having a glass of wine.”
Montreal is a beautiful, unique city that has surprises around every corner, no matter where you stay, eat, or go. Do some research (or use ours) if you’re interested in learning more, then just take a walk and explore. You’re bound to stumble across something good.
And don’t forget to share your experiences in the comments below.
I’m Your Man: The Life of Leonard Cohen by Sylvie Simmons*
History of Montreal
Vive le Quebec Libre
Au Pied de Cochon: The Album by Martin Picard**
Sugar Shack: Au Pied de Cochon by Martin Picard**
The Art of Living According to Joe Beef: A Cookbook of Sorts by David McMillan and Fred Moran**
*This book was an extremely well written account of Leonard Cohen’s life, rock n roll stories, and his version of Montreal. This book became my “spirit animal” for this trip.
**These cookbooks are great insights into the stories of two pioneers of the Montreal food scene. Great stories, photos and insights into how and why they do what they do. These recipes are NOT easy to make at home and include techniques and ingredients that are difficult and expensive. Do yourself a favor and read the stories, look at the pretty pictures and then go visit.
©2019 55 Cities
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